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Woven wire field fence construction
Terrip,
To join the two rolls of wire, you should do it at a fence post.
Double the fencing wire over, making about a three inch overlap, then wire that piece of fence to the post. Do the same thing with the other piece of fencing wire. Use separate wires to tie that end to the same post.
When you stretch your fence tight, you'll have to anchor your tractor to the post you made the joint at. On the other end of the fence, you use a fence stretcher, or a come-along hand winch to pull the fence tight. We used a come-along winch attached to the receiver hitch on the pickup.
At the corners, you'll need to beef up your posts. Most people use three Railroad ties, three utility poles, or three steel pipes.
Sink these posts into the ground about 3 feet from each other, with the center post forming the corner -- or in other words, place your posts so that they are arranged in the shape of "l", with the middle of the three posts placed at the corner.
Attach heavy support wires, or galvanized cable, from the top of two end posts, to the bottom of the center post.
Your corner post will never move an inch, and it will last nearly a lifetime.
You'll have to stretch your wire along the outside of these corner posts. Once tight, simply staple the wire to the corner posts. If you double the fencing wire over at this point, it will provide a much stronger and longer lasting hold.
If you decide to use steel posts at the corners, you might want to weld several hooks on the posts for which to attach your fence. After stretching the fence tight, simply place it over the hooks you welded to the post, and then let the tension off of your stretcher.
We used 3/8" steel rods, about 4 inches long, bent into the shape of an "l" for these hooks. Use about a dozen hooks on each post when using chicken wire, or woven wire. For barbed wire, one hook for each wire is all that's needed.
Joel
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Woven wire field fence construction
Thanks Brian!
Yes, it helps a great to first fasten a post to your fence BEFORE attempting to stretch it.
Things don't work so well when attempting to stretch a woven wire fence, when pulling on the wire itself. It is best to attach a post, or a couple of 2x4s to the fence before attempting to stretch it.
By doing this, the stretcher is able to put a great deal of tension on the fence, without breaking the woven wire where the stretcher is attached.
You'll be applying equal pressure to the entire width of the fencing, rather than attempting to stretch it at a single point in the woven wire.
Thanks again Brian.
Here's one of those cases in which a picture is worth far more than a 1000 words. A picture would make things so much easier for everyone.
Joel
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Woven wire field fence construction
Dear friends,
I finally found a site that shows some decent pictures of how to construct the corner posts.
See the link below.
Joel
Link:
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Woven wire field fence construction
Brian,
My uncle put me to work building a permanent fence, back in 1976. We finally finished it in 1979, just before I left for the Army. It's still standing, and it looks as good as the day we finished it.
If you have Google Earth, here's directions to the farm I grew up on, and the fence we built. You can see it in the satellite photo.
Type in Glenburn, North Dakota. Go south 1/2 mile to Glenburn Road. Travel east 2-1/2 miles, to 21st Ave. Northwest. The farm is located on the south side of Glenburn Road, and immediately to the east of 21st Ave.
Or....go to these coordinates.....
48 degrees 30 minutes North
101 degrees 10 minutes West
Now there's a fence!
Posts are set 8 feet apart, and are made of 4" steel pipe.
The Top Rail is made of 2-1/2" pipe, welded into saddles cut into the top of each vertical post. The saddle ears were then heated with a torch and hammered over to cover the top rail.
There are four smaller rungs, each made of steel oil-well sucker-rod, 7/8" in diameter.
Each sucker-rod is run through three pipes, joined in the middle, and welded on the outside of both sides of each vertical post.
There are a total of 9 welds on each post. There are 8 holes burned into each post, as well as a saddle cut into the top of each vertical post. All of this was done with a jig that we moved from post to post as we cut the holes and the saddle.
The fence is over 5 feet high, and each post was set into the ground using a surveying instrument to locate them. Every post is set in a perfect line with the others. All vertical posts are sunk in concrete. They are EXACTLY 8 feet apart, as the sucker rod is 24 feet long, and must join exactly in the middle of every third post.
The corners are made at 45 degree angles, and are 24 feet long.
The entire fence was then painted white, by hand.....by Guess Who? hehehe. Well, OK, my brother did about half of the work. He painted on one side of the fence, as I painted on the other. Total length is about 1 mile....maybe a bit longer.
Joel
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